Getting Started in 3mm: FAQ

1            Where do I start?

You've probably already realised that, Triang TT collectors apart, this is a modeller's scale.  A wealth of kits and components exist to help you create your models.   To get started, one good way would be to try a couple of wagon kits to get the feel of things, knock up a couple of feet of test track to run them on, then have a go at a locomotive.  However, before you can actually build anything you need to make a few decisions about what track gauge, and related standards, you are going to use.  Read on.

2             What track gauge and standards are used?

Triang adopted the international TT standard gauge of 12mm, although as they increased the scale to 3mm/ft this was undersize, for the British prototype standard gauge.  This is widely used, for fine scale layouts as well as coarse scale Triang.  However, the correct 14.2mm (actually 14.125mm) is now increasingly the gauge of choice.  A few modellers use 13.5mm gauge, which eases some tight clearances sometimes found with 14.2mm.  The Society publishes coarse, intermediate and fine standards for 12mm gauge, and fine standards for 13.5mm and 14.2mm gauges.

For other prototype gauges modelled, 9mm is used to represent 3ft gauge, 15.75mm to represent Irish 5' 3" gauge, 16.5mm to represent 5' 6" gauge, and there is even a Brunel 7' gauge interest!

3            Which track gauge and standards should I choose?

The standards used with 14.2mm are pragmatic and require little extra skill; there's a full range of supporting components such as wheels and finescale rail,  the wider gauge leaves more room for motors and gearboxes between the frames, and the results do give a noticeably closer to scale appearance.  Although some older kits may require adaption to give increased clearances for wheels, this is usually easily achieved.  However, clearances for outside cylinders, in particular those with outside valve gear, can be tight.  There is less scope for giving wheels sideplay, which means sharp curves may not be possible.   If outside valve gear is characteristic of your planned locomotives, or you need to use sharp curves with longer wheelbase locomotives or stock, it's worth considering using a narrower gauge.

13.5mm uses similar standards to 14.2mm, but gives a useful increase in clearances, which helps with both the potential limitations noted above.  However, there are very few active modellers using 13.5mm, and you may find advantages in being part of a larger community.

Although 12mm is associated with Triang TT, in fact a number of fine 12mm layouts of scale appearance have appeared over the years, demonstrating that you can use it yet achieve good results.  Most active modellers in 12mm use the Society's intermediate standards.  These permit use of commercial wheels such as Kean Maygib or the Sharman Millimetre range.  Romfords, increasingly to the fine RP25 tyre profile, are also popular;  although of slightly coarser appearance than the others, they are robust, self quartering, and are easy to remove and refit.  It is the one gauge for which some off-the-shelf commercial track is available.  However, the narrower width between locomotove frames limits the use of some motors and gearboxes.  Also the wider wheel treads, deeper rail section and underscale gauge do detract to some degree from scale appearance.

In the remainder of this guide you may find further things to help you with your choice.  One thing you might do is try a wagon kit with both 12mm and 14.2mm wheels (easily swapped if you position the brake gear carefully) and note the difference; the Society Slater's-produced SL1 or SL6 private owner wagons would be a good choice as they include 12mm wheels, and you need only purchase wheels for 14.2mm, either SN1 (Stapleton/Society) or KM23 (Kean Maygib).  

4            What track is available?

The principal off-the-shelf ranges are produced by Tillig and Peco. Tillig produces a range of 12mm track for international TT (1:120, approx. 2.5mm/ft), with points in both ready to use and kit form. The points have dead frogs, which isn't ideal for good running.  Although the track is good quality, in appearance it's fairly obvious that it's intended for a smaller scale.
 
Although Peco 12mm track is intended for HOm, the sleeper size and spacing isn't far off that required for 3mm/ft, and it has been used with success by several 3mm/ft modellers.  The range of pointwork is currently fairly small, but the standard medium left and right hand points have a nominal 24" radius, which is good enough for most purposes. There are also curved points, with an outer radius of 24" but a rather sharp 15" inner radius which would need care in using.  Peco points have live frogs, for better running.  Both Tillig and Peco are compatible with Society intermediate standards, and it is possible to run some Triang after some adjustment.

The Society provides Ratio 12mm plain track bases, with correct sleeper size and spacing; it can be used with both bullhead and flatbottom rail, available from the Society or 3SMR; the Society is also investigating the introduction of 14.2mm track bases and possibly other components. 3SMR offers a point construction service in all gauges, to order.  Second hand Triang track can still be found, but is mainly of interest to Triang collectors.

Most active modellers in 3mm/ft construct their own track, which actually isn't difficult.
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5            How would I construct track?

Two main methods of track construction are used.  For 12mm intermediate standards,  the usual method is to solder rail directly to gapped copper clad sleepers.  The Society and 3SMR provide copper clad sleepers, although other sources are also used, and also supply bullhead and flatbottom rail, to code 75 or 80.

Although this approach can be used for finescale track, a more popular method  is to use plastic chairs, glued to either plastic or plywood sleepers.  Plastic chairs for code 60 rail are available from Ian Osbourne and from the Society;  the Society ones are smaller, but the Osbourne ones reckoned to be easier to use. Both use the Society's own code 60 bullhead rail.  The chairs include standard and slide types;  other specialist chairs used in constructing points can easily be produced  by modifying these.  The Society provides plywood sleepering,  while Plastruct or Evergreen strip can be used to produce plastic sleepers.  Solvent such as Plastic Weld is used to glue chairs to sleepers.

Accurate track gauges are the key to producing good working track.  Finney & Smith produce a good range in all gauges, while 3SMR produces roller gauges in 12mm and 14.2mm.  The Society provides a high quality jig for machining and forming point V's, for code 60 rail only.

Templates are a useful guide when constructing track, although the accurate bits of the operation are done using the gauges. The Society provides sets of point templates in 12mm and 14.2mm, although you can also use ones reduced from larger scales.  However, an increasing number of members produce their own templates using Templot software.  Templot produces prototypically accurate plans in any scale, including 3mm/ft, will cater for all Society standards, and can produce complex formations, or even complete layouts, as well as individual points.

If you've never done it, track production may seem daunting, but it isn't, so give it a go.  All you need is a small amount of the basic components, and a gauge for your chosen track gauge.

6            What wheels are used?

For 14.2mm or 12mm finescale, the Society's own wheels, manufactured by Stapleton Engineering, are generally used, or Kean Maygib finescale wagon and coach wheels.  For 12mm intermediate use, the Kean Maygib (intermediate standard) 3mm range or Sharman Millimetre range can be used, also Alan Gibson 3mm wagon and coach wheels.  All the driving wheels above need the user to do the quartering, not difficult with a bit of practice.  Romford self-quartering driving wheels, for 4mm or 3mm, can be used with Romford 12mm axles for 12mm intermediate use;  choose the RP25 profile versions for better looks.  

Finney & Smith have recently introduced a bespoke service, producing high quality, prototypically accurate wheels to order, to intermediate or fine standards in 12mm and 14.2mm;  they feature self-quartering driving wheels.

You'll usually need appropriate brass bearings.  Slaters (Society SL4) pin point bearings are the most useful for wagons, Kean Maygib KM6 for coach bogies, KM22 inside bearings for inside use on 1.5mm axles, and Branchlines 1/8" short top hat (straw hat) for steam driving wheels.

7            What couplings are used?

B&B 3mm couplings are popular; they are unobtrusive, self-coloured, assembled just by bending (with care!) and feature remote uncoupling.  Some prefer the operationally similar DG couplings for more robust use.  The traditional Triang type of  coupling, in various forms, is still used.

8            What motors and gearboxes can be used?

Mashima open frame motors (12/16 or 12/20), often with Branchlines RSL gearboxes, have long been used;  the RSL (unusually for one of this size)  features a grub screw fixing for the main gear, useful if you think you'll want to pull things apart easily.  Branchlines 2-stage gearboxes are also used.  14.2mm users can often, with advantage, use the more powerful, slower and smoother Mashima 1220 flat can motor (or sometimes even the 1224); the 1220 can be squeezed into some of the larger 12mm locomotives.   Other approaches are possible.

Branchlines gearboxes require careful checking, assembly and running in to work well.  High Level multi-stage gearboxes offer a quality alternative which is easy to assemble. Finney & Smith stock two High Level Slimliner gearboxes developed for 3mm scale (choice of 3 gear ratios), and also the narrower Mashima 1015, 1020 and 1024 flat can motors which fit these two gearboxes; they can be used for both 12mm and 14.2mm.  The High Level Roadrunner can be used with the standard Mashima motors, for 14.2mm only.

Andrew Shillito offers a range of power bogie kits which can be used for diesel and electric applications,  the Society also produces some diesel chassis kits, while 3SMR sells some complete power bogies.

9            Will I need to use compensation or springing?

In a few cases in 14.2mm, for example 4 wheel coaches or wagons with long wheelbases, compensation may be needed; Worsley Works offers a simple etched inside bearing compensating frame, which may be useful, and the Society offers etched compensating W-irons. Otherwise, generally no.  However, you can improve current pick up in locomotives by using some form of flexible chassis arrangement.

10            What pickups can be used?

You can use just the same methods of picking up current as you would in any other scale.  Brass or phosphor bronze wire bearing on tyre treads, or phosphor bronze strip bearing on the backs of treads, are all used.  Some members use split frame methods.

11            Can I use modern control systems such as feedback controllers or DCC?

Feedback controllers are widely used.  Modern motors appear to give no problems, but older motors such as those in Triang locomotives may suffer from overheating.

Some modellers are trying out DCC.  Provided your locomotives have suitable motors and perform well, and in particular pick up current reliably, there appears to be no problem, but it's a good idea to get your  locomotive to work well under DC before converting it to DCC.  N scale decoders can usually be fitted, and in some cases OO/HO ones.

12            What would be a good wagon to start with?

Apart from the Slater's SL1/SL6 wagons already mentioned, the Parkside wagons offered by the Society (code beginnning PP in the Society lists) are high quality, go together easily, and include examples from pre-grouping to modern;  you'll need wheels, bearings and couplings of your choice, and of course paint and transfers.  For a wider choice, apart from the Society, other wagons are available mainly from Finney&Smith (including some distinctive and some older period examples) and 3SMR

13            What would be a good locomotive to start with?

This depends very much on your taste, experience and inclinations.  For steam locomotive buffs, some very high quality etched locomotive kits are available complete with fittings, for example those derived from Malcolm Mitchell 4mm kits, but they take time and skill to complete, and even with experience you may prefer to start with something fairly simple.  The Society lists, and those of Worsley Works, 3SMR and Finney&Smith are worth browsing.  Many recent kits now employ fold up chasses which are quickly and easily assembled, and some these can be used with older kits.

The simplest bodies to assemble are the older white metal kits, such as the ex GEM  kits available from 3SMR, and some Society kits; some are crude by today's standards and may require minor modifications to use modern chasses, but they are usually dimensionally correct, can be improved by adding detail, and  may be an acceptable starting point.  Etched bodies obviously require a fair amount of soldering and take more time;  the more modern use slot-and-tab construction, which helps a lot with assembly, and if you're happy with soldering, the simpler ones, for example the smaller Connoisseur 7mm derived ones offered by Finney&Smith, or the smaller Society ones, may also be a good starting point. Hybrid etched/resin bodies such as those in the Brynkits range may also worth a look;  in these,  major body components such as  firebox/boiler/smokebox are provided as resin castings, so you are saved from forming the trickier shapes. With most kits you need to add motor, gearbox, wheels, couplings, paint and transfers, pickups and handrails to complete; if you're not sure what to buy, Finney&Smith and 3SMR now provide completion kits, covering some of these items,  for a number of locomotives. Cram as much weight in as you can (a good rule in this scale). Some modellers revell in applying extra details.

If you're into diesel or electric, look at the offerings of Worsley Works, Bruce Smetham, and others.  For example, you could take the Worsley Works Class 58,  add a Bruce Hoyle set of whitemetal castings, and power it with suitable bogies from the range produced by Andrew Shillito.  Bruce Smetham produces cast resin bodies for a number of first generation diesels, including a Western, and a Class 20; again Andrew Shillito's power bogies can be used.  Worsley Works also does an extensive range of etched multiple unit kits.

14            What would be a good coach to start with?

The only readily built plastic coach kit available is the Society's GWR B set, which is perhaps not up to the latest standards, but will produce a decent pair of coaches, and with a bit of work can be further improved.  You will need castings (buffers RG4 BR23, roof vents 3xRH1), bogies, wheels, couplings and window glazing.  If you want to add internal detail, use plasticard for partitions, and PP12 seats. Bogies for most coaches are produced using MJT etched frames, which are available from the Society in various wheelbases, together with cosmetic whitemetal sideframes (GWR 9' Standard ones from 3SMR for the B set).  LMS plastic suburban coaches are under development.  You can apply etched sides and ends from the Worsley Works range to an existing, suitably modified, coach;  old Triang coaches can be used, although for GWR 57' coaches the Society's B set, with sides replaced by PP20 clear plastic coach sides, is a better bet.

All other coaches are basically etched, and require varying amounts of additional components.  Finney&Smith and 3SMR coaches include castings unless stated, but may require wire and other bits and pieces. Worsley Works coaches, which are built on the Comet principle, generally include etched sides, ends and floor, but always require castings, as do the the Mallard/Blacksmith coach etchings offered by the Society.  The Society has a booklet by Tony Seal which contains a lot of useful advice on building etched coaches, and Worsley Works has one describing the Comet approach.

15            What transfers and name or number plates are available?

The BR modeller is well catered for, with various transfers from the Society, and Modelmaster transfers from 3SMR. For the pre-Nationalisation scene, the Society offers PC methfix transfers covering mainly the Big Four post-Grouping companies, 3SMR offers the four Modelmaster sets which cover many of the common Big Four wagons, while Finney&Smith offer a number of useful specialised transfers, both for railway companies and for private owner wagons. Cambridge Custom Transfers offer transfers from their standard range in 3mm.

Some locomotive name and/or number plates are available in 3mm from Kings Cross Plates and from 3SMR.  The Society kit MF1 can be used to produce almost any standard GWR number plate.

16            What further information and services are available?

Joining the Society will give you access to a wide range of products, information, services, and other members, namely:-

a)    Price List
       Periodically issued to members.  Contains full listing of most Society products, with prices.
b)    Mail Order
        The place for members to order products listed in the Price List.
c)    Marshalling Yard
       Source of Society and Peco track, rail, jigs, sleepering, and related items
d)    Stock Sidings
       The second-hand shop.  Most Triang and other 3mm products pass through the shop at some time or other.
e)    Illustrated Catalogue
       Very comprehensive illustrated CD-based guide to products of the Society and major suppliers, including past products.
       Ideal for sourcing that obscure component you've found you need.
f)    Mixed Traffic
       The Society's highly popular quarterly magazine.  Includes articles, reviews, hints, arguments, adverts.
g)    Newsletter
       Issued with Mixed Traffic.  Latest product news from suppliers, also other news, shows, area groups.  
       The main source of keeping in touch with who's producing what.
h)    Meetings
       Apart from the AGM, which is also the main showcase for the scale, there are several other major get togethers.
       You can meet other modellers, and also spend your hard earned cash on Society and suppliers' stands.
       There are a number of area groups which host their own meetings.
i)    E-list
      A lively forum for online members to share information, advice and views.

17                What next?

Well, hopefully you have enough information to get started, although naturally a lot of things, for example scenic items, haven't been mentioned.  If you haven't already, then join the 3mm Society and get the product lists.  The major independant suppliers all now have web sites worth looking at.  Think about where you want to go, make a list of the items you are going to need and from whom, then send off your orders.  And wait.  All the people you've contacted have other lives and other commitments, and may need some time to respond to your order.  In fact, as a general rule, order things when you know you're going to need them, not when you actually do, to avoid frustrating waits!  In some instances ordering is necessarily a multi-stage process; you may need to order a kit before working out what further items you need, which of course takes more time overall, so be patient.

Once you've joined the Society, then assuming that you have internet access you can join the Society's e-list, where you'll get all the help and advice (and more!) that you'll need.